A Modern Melba

I recently spoke at the American Culinary Federation Central Region Conference about modernizing traditional desserts.  One of the desserts I demonstrated was my take on the classic peach melba.  Auguste Escoffier is credited for creating this seasonal dessert many many years ago at the Savoy Hotel.  When the fruits are in season, fresh raspberries and peaches finished with vanilla ice cream is simple yet wonderful.  With all due respect to Escoffier, I wanted to attempt a more intricate presentation.  I also wanted to showcase an assembled dish without the ever-popular deconstructed style that dominates modern pastry. 

  

Peach Challah:

200 grams peach puree

6 grams instant yeast

75 grams vegetable oil 

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

485 grams all purpose flour

2 teaspoons salt

In the bowl of a stand mixer bloom the yeast in the peach puree.  Ensure it is working by smell and a gentle foaming around the sides of the dish.  Add the remaining ingredients in order and mix, using a dough hook, on low speed for three minutes.  Make sure the dough is fully hydrated.  Increase speed to medium and mix until a smooth ball forms around the hook, about 4 minutes.  Place dough in new, greased bowl and allow to bulk ferment for an hour.  Punch down the dough then use.  For the bread peaches, make small buns and fully proof the dough before baking.  Bake at 350F until completely baked and hollow sounding.  Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.  Trim the bread to fit together to resemble a peach.  Hollow the inside of the bun for desired filling. 

Fill the "peaches" with peach pastry cream, sandwich together, glaze with apricot or peach gel, then dust with coarse colored sugar to achieve that fuzzy look.  Allow the sugar to refrigerate for several hours before serving.

Peach challah with green tea and rose sugars, peach pastry cream, raspberry gelee, white chocolate sticks, lime mint and tangerine lace, vanilla ice cream disk

I love this dish.  It is whimsical and has an element of surprise.  Look for more on the modern dessert series as summer continues.

Enjoy!

Taco Throwdown

Recently I took part in the first annual North Texas Taco Festival and Taco Throwdown.  The weather was perfect, the people were friendly, and the food was awesome - a truly great day to be a chef.  A big shout out to all of the organizers, vendors, and sponsors!  While I didn't edge out the competition, I think I earned a bit of respect with my on-the-spot homemade tortillas.

Ready for the press

Joe the Baker Corn Tortillas:

7 ounces tortilla masa
1.4 ounces lard
teaspoon white pepper
teaspoon salt
teaspoon ground ancho
zest of one lime
4 to 6 ounces water
juice of two limes

First combine all the dry ingredients and mix well.  Blend the lard into the mixture until it all resembles sawdust.  Set aside.  Boil the water, lime juice, and lime remnants together.  Add to the dry mixture and stir to create a stiff paste.  Continue to work the paste until it becomes doughy.  Let rest, covered, for 10 minutes, then portion into desired size and round.

For street-style sized tortillas, use about 1.5 ounces per tortilla.  Press the rounds with a tortilla press then griddle over high heat.  The tortilla should sizzle a bit as it hits the surface.  Gently shake the pan to release the tortilla and turn it 90 degrees.  After about 20 seconds, flip the tortilla.  Allow to cook until puffed, about 45 seconds.  Flip again and allow to fully inflate, about another 45 seconds.  Remove from heat and stack tortillas together then wrap in a tea towel and place in a container for use.

Puffing up and taking color

Typically corn tortillas are made without much fat, but this version will give you a very tender tortilla with crisp edges.  Be sure to griddle each tortilla again just before filling to make it more flexible.

Morita Peanut Mole, Pineapple and Fresno Flank, Queso Fresco, Pickled Onion, and Cilantro

Buen Provecho!

Real Men Bake Quiche

Quiche is the perfect vehicle for showcasing gorgeous spring produce.  After a whole season of heavy meals and fairly monochromatic plates, a vibrant quiche is a welcome change.  While usually reserved for brunch or afternoon tea, quiche can be eaten at any meal.   It's a protein-packed, portable lunch option for vegetarians -  or anyone who's tired of sandwiches - and an easy make-ahead dinner for busy families.  Season aggresively and serve with a green salad.

Quiche Dough:

4 ounces shortening or lard, frozen
8 ounces all purpose flour
seasonings, as needed
cold water, as needed
1 egg white, gently whipped

Grind the frozen fat and flour to a sawdust consistency by hand or in a food processor.  Add seasonings and continue combining until uniform.  Use only enough water that a smooth dough forms.  Continue working the dough until it is completely hydrated and easy to shape.  Roll dough to desired thickness, typically 3/8", and line a tart pan.  Bake at 425F until dough is firm and brown, about 15 minutes.  Remove from heat and brush the crust with the whipped egg white and bake in the oven for two minutes longer.  Remove from heat again and allow to cool completely.  Reserve tart shell for later use.

Vegetarian spinach, cheddar, and "fakon" quiche

Quiche Filling:

10 ounces half and half
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
seasonings, as needed
cheese, as needed

Heat the dairy with herbs and spices to steep flavor; use sweated onions, sprigs of herbs, or powdered flavorings.  Separately, beat together the egg parts until smooth.  Slowly pour the hot liquid over the eggs and blend until smooth.  Strain into new container and use.

Line the cooled tart shell with solid ingredients like cheese, meats, or vegetables.  Ensure they are evenly distributed around the tart shell.  Slowly pour in the filling until the solids float.  Carefully place in the oven and bake at 320F until the custard sets.  Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly before serving.

Enjoy!