Friday, June 7, 2013

We Got the Beet

These days the heat is gentle, the sun is bright, and the produce is abundant.  Of course, the best place to get fresh, colorful fruit and veg is from your local farmer.  I highly encourage personal relationships with the people who keep food on our tables.  This month I was fortunate to participate in several chefs for farmers events where local farms donated seasonal products for my cooking enjoyment.  The following dish will be served at the Coppell Farmer's Market Farm to Table Dinner this weekend.  A big thanks to Latte Da Dairy, D Bar Ranch, Texas Olive Ranch, and Round Rock Honey for these delicious ingredients.

Lemon & Olive Oil Cake, Honey-Glazed Strawberries,
Goat Cheese Ice Cream, and Beet Mousse
Goat Cheese Ice Cream:
125 grams egg yolks
225 grams sugar
15 grams salt
475 grams whole milk or goat milk
500 grams fresh chèvre or other soft cheese

Blend together the first four ingredients until smooth.  Cook in a heavy bottomed pot over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens and is smooth.  Strain into a new container and chill completely.  Finally, blend in the fresh cheese until entirely incorporated.  Strain again and freeze according to manufacturer's recommendations.

Beet Mousse:
425 grams beet puree or juice
125 grams sugar
1 vanilla bean
5 sheets gelatin, bloomed
200 grams fresh chevre or other soft cheese
425 grams heavy cream

Combine the first four ingredients together in a heavy bottomed pot.  Heat over medium to dissolve.  Strain into a new container and chill completely.  Separately, blend together the cheese and cream, then whip to medium peaks.  Blend the gel and whipped cream together to form a stable mousse.

Enjoy!

Sunday, May 26, 2013

Half-Pound Cake

With one of the quintessential grilling holidays underway, sometimes dessert is an afterthought.  This summer, keep it simple with an American classic.

Half-Pound Cake:

226 grams butter, soft
175 grams sugar
50 grams brown sugar
230 grams whole eggs
160 grams all purpose flour
60 grams cake flour
3 grams baking powder
4 grams salt
1 vanilla bean, scraped
Compound syrup for brushing (optional)

Cream together the butter and sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes.  Add eggs and blend until homogenous.  Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula to ensure even mixing.  Separately, sift together the remaining ingredients.  Add these to the bowl and mix just until incorporated.  Bake in a loaf pan at 375F until the top crust is firm.  Cut a single slash through the top layer with a sharp knife then finish baking until a skewer inserted in the middle returns clean.  Allow to cool briefly in the pan, then remove.  To keep the cake super moist, brush with a compound syrup while it's still warm and cover the entire cake.  Finally, allow to cool completely before use.

Vanilla pound cake, fresh strawberries, creme fraiche, lavender buttercream

I love how customizable this cake is.  Add any extra flavorings along the way to make it your own, or sear just before serving for a more adventurous take.  A portion of pound cake is the perfect base for colorful summer fruits, mild cheeses, or whipped toppings.

Enjoy, and thank a veteran this Memorial Day!


Wednesday, May 8, 2013

A Modern Melba


I recently spoke at the American Culinary Federation Central Region Conference about modernizing traditional desserts.  One of the desserts I demonstrated was my take on the classic peach melba.  Auguste Escoffier is credited for creating this seasonal dessert many many years ago at the Savoy Hotel.  When the fruits are in season, fresh raspberries and peaches finished with vanilla ice cream is simple yet wonderful.  With all due respect to Escoffier, I wanted to attempt a more intricate presentation.  I also wanted to showcase an assembled dish without the ever-popular deconstructed style that dominates modern pastry. 
  
Peach Challah:

200 grams peach puree
6 grams instant yeast
75 grams vegetable oil 
2 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
485 grams all purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt

In the bowl of a stand mixer bloom the yeast in the peach puree.  Ensure it is working by smell and a gentle foaming around the sides of the dish.  Add the remaining ingredients in order and mix, using a dough hook, on low speed for three minutes.  Make sure the dough is fully hydrated.  Increase speed to medium and mix until a smooth ball forms around the hook, about 4 minutes.  Place dough in new, greased bowl and allow to bulk ferment for an hour.  Punch down the dough then use.  For the bread peaches, make small buns and fully proof the dough before baking.  Bake at 350F until completely baked and hollow sounding.  Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.  Trim the bread to fit together to resemble a peach.  Hollow the inside of the bun for desired filling. 

Fill the "peaches" with peach pastry cream, sandwich together, glaze with apricot or peach gel, then dust with coarse colored sugar to achieve that fuzzy look.  Allow the sugar to refrigerate for several hours before serving.

Peach challah with green tea and rose sugars, peach pastry cream, raspberry gelee, white chocolate sticks, lime mint and tangerine lace, vanilla ice cream disk



I love this dish.  It is whimsical and has an element of surprise.  Look for more on the modern dessert series as summer continues.

Enjoy!